TUNING

Dyno Tuning vs. E-Tuning
Dyno tuning is done in person. Your car goes on a dynamometer, and we adjust the calibration in real time while watching air/fuel ratios, knock, and power output. It's the best choice for heavily modified cars, forced induction, and engine swaps, and you get measured horsepower and torque. It requires a trip to our shop.
E-tuning is done remotely. You load a base map, log data while driving, and send the logs to us, we will send back revisions until it's dialed in. It's convenient, more affordable, and works well for bolt-on cars and popular platforms. It takes several rounds, and may take 1-2 weeks to complete.
Not sure which is right for your car? Contact us and we'll point you in the right direction.
Schedule a Dyno tune here
Purchase E-Tunes Here

CHECKLIST

Please complete the below checklist before your tuning appointment to ensure we use the full dyno session for tuning—not fixing mechanical or electrical issues. All existing problems must be resolved beforehand. Minor fixes can be handled during the session, but additional labor/diagnosis fees may apply and could delay other appointments. Cancellations must be made at least 7 days in advance due to high demand.

IS YOUR CAR READY TO BE TUNED?

Appointment day

Please make sure you arrive 15 minutes earlier than the agreed upon time of your appointment. No-call/no-shows will have the deposit absorbed as a "missed appointment fee." If you are more than 20 minutes late for the start of your scheduled appointment, your deposit will be absorbed as a "late fee." No exceptions.

Boost Leak test

Check for any boost leaks by pressurizing the turbo inlet to a minimum of 20psi. Make sure all the clamps are in good condition for all piping. We will not pull the bumper off to fix the intercooler piping that pops off. Driving the car and seeing if it boosts is not the way to check for a boost leak. You MUST use pressurized air to check for boost leaks. Secure ALL vacuum hoses on boosted vehicles with clamps or zip ties. This is critical as a vacuum line popping off the FPR during boost could mean the end of your motor. Any hoses that need to be tightened during the session will be charged for.

Timing Belt

Check that your timing belt is lined up correctly by making sure the marks on the gears and crank pulley line up.

Spark Plugs

The spark plugs must have been replaced in the last 5000 miles. They should be gapped properly and tight. We recommend 0.018 - 0.022 for evo 8/9 on stock ignition, 0.02 - 0.024 on COP kit and 0.024 inches for Evo X.

Wastegate

If you have an aftermarket wastegate, ensure that the spring and the wastegate size are correct for your setup. The boost can't run lower than the wastegate spring, even with a boost controller.

Tires

Make sure all your tires are at a proper pressure per vendor's specifications and equal (usually 30-40psi). The wheels must be properly torqued down.

Fuel requirements

lease come in with at least half a tank of gas, unless we are tuning on two different fuels. If your car has been in storage or sitting for awhile, make sure to drain the fuel and put in fresh gas. Shell 91 is preferred for 91 pump gas tuning. If you are doing a flex fuel tune, we usually start off with 91 in the tank so please show up with 1/4 tank of 91. You should bring 10-15 gallons of E85 on the side in gas jugs. If you have ever ran e85 you will need to flush out with about 2 full tanks to get the ethanol content to E12 or under.

Clutch

Make sure that your clutch is not slipping and it will hold the power that we are aiming for. We cannot tune a car with slipping clutch.

Fault codes

If you have any check engine codes, please fix them before your appointment or contact us to find out if they are tune related.

Engine health

Make sure your engine compression is where it should be for your compression ratio and that all the cylinders read close to each other. Your compression and leak down test numbers should not have a variance of more than 10%.

Fluids

Make sure your oil is at the proper level - do not overfill - and your cooling system is full and bled. Fix any oil, coolant, or transmission fluid leaks. If your engine oil and filter have more than 3000 miles on them, please replace them both.

Battery

The battery must not be weak and the alternator must produce the correct voltage. Battery voltage can greatly affect your fueling and ignition strength. A battery that requires a jump every time you start the car can cause problems during WOT tuning.

Wiring

Solder all connections. Do not have any exposed wiring or solder joints. Heat shrink or tape over any bare wire. Do not just twist and tape connections, especially any important sensors or injector wiring.

Exhaust leaks

Fix any exhaust leaks near the O2 sensor since they can cause idle and fueling problems. Make sure your exhaust is not hitting anything on the car or rattling.

Brakes

Make sure the brakes work properly and the steering does not shake when brakes are applied.

Drivability

As part of our final check upon completion of dyno tuning, we may perform a basic street driving (weather permitting). With the exception of track only cars, the vehicle should be legal to be driven on the street with proper documents including registration, inspection and insurance that are up to date. The car must be safe with all seat belts, supports and bumpers, etc to minimize unwanted attention.